This travel guide is a very personal account of our travels. What we saw, where we ate and stayed, and what we liked and didn’t like.
Along with our lists, we’ve included a few tidbits of wisdom that we wish we’d had before we left. We hope you find this information useful on your next trip as well.
Istanbul is a huge city with a history spanning thousands of years. Seeing all the sites and attractions could easily take a week or more. To get a feel for the city, though, there are a few must see attractions.
Due to Turkey’s stubbornly high inflation, cash remains king here. Bring lots of it to avoid high ATM and credit card fees.
You’ll get the best rate by exchanging your Dollars or Euros at a money changer shop. While most places in the larger towns take credit cards, you’ll still need cash for many other places. Most merchants will also happily accept Dollars or Euros, but at a less favorable rate.
After recent changes in bank regulations, almost all ATMs will charge at least an 8% withdrawal fee, on top of whatever your own bank charges. One exception we’ve found is with a debit card from Wise. We were able to withdraw money using this card with no fee at all. Follow this link for more details.
Many businesses have credit card readers that only accept cards with PIN codes. If you don’t already have it, be sure to get a PIN code from your card issuer before you leave.
The recently opened Istanbul International Airport is a long way outside the central city and is miles from anything else.
With many international flights arriving late at night and onward domestic connections leaving early in the morning, it makes no sense to go to a hotel all the way in the city. We suggest either staying in the airport at Yotel, nearby at Park Inn Odayeri, or driving a few extra miles and staying in a nice local town. We enjoyed our stay at Villa Siesta Hotel, in the town of Karaburun, on the Black Sea.
Transfers from the airport to the city can be quite confusing, as the transportation companies cannot display a placard with the client’s name. Instead, you need to go to the transfer kiosk outside the terminal building and find a representative.
Many culinary experts consider Turkish cuisine as one of the three great cuisines of the world, along with French and Chinese. From its roots in the Ottoman Empire, culinary influences from Central Asia, the Middle East, and the Mediterranean regions were blended to create a unique cooking style. This fusion created recipes that were both flavorful and healthy.
While visiting Turkey, make it a point to try local specialties like the many kinds of kebabs, börek and baklava. Turkish dinners also focus on the starters, or mezze. You’ll be presented with myriad varieties of starters to sample. Just be sure to leave some room for the main course and dessert!
A food tour is a good way to sample it all.
Turkish people have a long-standing tradition of hospitality, stemming from the cultural values of kindness, respect, and generosity. It is not uncommon for strangers to be treated like honored guests in Turkish homes. The Turkish people believe in the importance of making visitors feel comfortable and valued.
Don’t be taken aback by these displays of warmth and generosity. They are sincere and heartfelt.
First time visitors to Istanbul should start here. Within a small area, there are five or six attractions that really define the city. These are the Topkapi Palace, the Blue Mosque, the Aya Sofya (Hagia Sophia) Mosque, the Roman Cisterns, the Spice Bazaar, and the Grand Bazaar. The best way to see these is with a private guided tour. Not only will you get local insight and knowledge, but they’ll allow you to skip the long lines waiting at each attraction.
If you are planning to buy gold, leather, ceramics, rugs, or anything else in the Grand Bazaar, you should give yourself at least a half day for this, and ideally two days. Day one is for browsing from among the 4,000 shops in the bazaar and deciding what you want, and day two is for returning to negotiate with your chosen shop.
Across the Golden Horn from the Old Town is the neighborhood of Beyoğlu. It is home to the Galata Tower, a city landmark from the 13th century, and Istiklal Caddesi, Istanbul’s most famous shopping street. Down the hill from Beyoğlu are the fun and hip neighborhoods of Kumbaracı, Karaköy, and Galataport. Also nearby is the Dolmabahçe Palace, the home of the last sultan of the Ottoman Empire.
Istanbul is a city surrounded by water. It defines and shapes the pace of life here. The best way to see it is to take a cruise on the Bosphorus, the strait that separates Europe and Asia as well as Istanbul’s two sides.You can book a private boat, a seat on a group tour boat, or just hop on a ferry that makes many stops on both sides of the strait. If you have even more time, plan a day in the Princes’ Islands, a group of small islands just a few miles from the city and a popular summer destination.
For those with more time, some other interesting neighborhoods worth exploring are Ortaköy, Nișantașı, Bebek and several more on the newly hip Asian side.
Değirmencioğlu – Surround yourself with locals at this authentic kebab spot in the heart of old town.
Deraliye – Michelin recognized restaurant of authentic Ottoman cuisine.
Eleos Restaurant – Treat yourself to this excellent fish restaurant with a view. Given the location, prices are reasonable.
Espressolab Taxim Tünel – The best espresso drinks around – trust us.
Karaköy Güllüoğlu – Yes, there are a lot of baklava shops in Istanbul, but few are as amazing as this one.
Kumbaraci Pastry Shop – Börek shops used to be everywhere, not so any more. This little corner shop is worth seeking out.
Yengeç Fish Restaurant – The Kumkapı area has several streets lined with outdoor fish restaurants and it’s hard to know which one to choose. This restaurant was recommended by our hotel and took good care of us.
Süper Mario Restaurant – Fish sandwiches under the Galata Bridge are one of the must-try things in Istanbul. If you can’t get to the bridge, Super Mario has an outlet in Karaköy where he serves THE original fish sandwich.
Nardis Jazz Club – Not really Turkish at all, but a wonderful little jazz club in Beyoğlu.
There are thousands of hotels to choose from in Istanbul and your choice will depend on the part of town you want to stay in and your budget. Two reasonably priced hotels in the Beyoğlu area are:
The Story Hotel Pera. Ranks high in enthusiasm, location, character and room size. The deluxe double room is a better value than the deluxe double with terrace as the terrace only has a water view when standing up.
The Richmond Istanbul has outstanding views of the Golden Horn, a wonderful location and a warm, hospitable staff.
May 27, 2024
Henry
Well done Sami and Ann….informative and interesting!