Tunisia

Tunisia? Why Tunisia? That was inevitably the first question when we told our friends our next trip was going to be Tunisia. I’ll confess it wasn’t on my radar at all either. Then, a few months ago, I spent some time with my cousin Homeyra, who is posted at the American Embassy in Tunis. She said the country is absolutely beautiful, with warm, hospitable people, and an incredibly rich history.

So here we are.

We started our excursion in the seaside town of Sidi Bou Said. Along with its neighbor La Marsa, these are the upscale suburbs of Tunis. The first thing that strikes you is that most of the buildings are whitewashed, with blue trim. The next is that there are flowers everywhere. Huge stands of bougainvillea and jasmine surround many of the compounds. It’s a feast for the senses.

Sidi Bou Said is also the site of Carthage, once the capital of a powerful and long-lived ancient dynasty. The town is filled with ruins and other artifacts from that long ago era (more on that in a later post).

In 1907, Rodolphe d’Erlanger, a French Baron and patron of the arts, moved to Sidi Bou Said. He built a beautiful house on a cliff overlooking the sea using a theme of whitewashed walls and blue trim. He loved the look so much he later paid to have the entire town painted that way. Many years later, Sidi Bou Said became a UNESCO World Heritage site, thus preserving the town’s unique look. It gives the town a bit of a Greek Island feel.

Baron d’Erlanger’s house, Dar Ennejma Ezzahra, which means “The Star of Venus”, today is a museum showcasing his amazing collection of musical instruments from throughout North Africa.