San Miguel de Allende was a delightful discovery for us, with an alluring mix of art, architecture, food and adventure. Full of high-end fashion boutiques, exquisite galleries and delightful bakeries, as well as a thriving foodie scene and a beautiful and well-preserved colonial old town. We both agreed it is the most charming city we’ve been to in Mexico.
The city is located in the central highlands of Mexico, at an altitude of over 6000′ and about a 3-hour drive north from Mexico City. By the mid-18th century it was one of the the largest and most prosperous cities in New Spain. Most of the large mansions, palaces and religious buildings remain intact today, and it should remain that way now that it has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The central core of the town remains authentic colonial, with buildings pushing right up to the narrow cobblestone streets. As the town prepared for the holiday season, we found that the local residents and merchants have still found a way to dress up their buildings, despite having only a small doorway visible to the outside world.
A wealthy American art patron discovered San Miguel de Allende (SMA) in 1937 and decided to establish an art school there. The school was popular with both Mexicans and Americans. After World War II, the school welcomed veterans with GI Bill benefits, resulting in a surge of expatriates settling there. Today, over 10% of the city’s population are expats, fueling the thriving art and culture scene. It is also driving the restaurant scene, where we found a much broader array of offerings than is usual for a small Mexican town.
There are hundreds of art galleries in SMA, showcasing many different styles (and price points). On the edge of town, The Fábrica la Aurora hosts dozens alone, in what was once a textile mill.
After a few days of exploring the town, we also wanted to see the surrounding countryside. The city sits on a plateau that is surrounded by beautiful mountains. We found a great way to experience nature there by taking a horseback ride through one of the area’s many Ejitos (a farming coop). Nice horses, a good guide and helpful vaqueros made for a wonderful day.
