Istanbul – Still Beautiful After All These Years

It had been 18 years since my (Sami) last visit to Istanbul. So it was with a mixture of anticipation and a bit of fear that I approached this latest visit. Though I was born there, I have only been back a handful of times since my family moved away when I was five. Istanbul has grown and developed so rapidly over the last few decades that each return visit revealed huge changes from the previous one. Hence the anticipation of what was new and different, mixed with the fear of what has been lost along the way.

This visit was a bit of a whirlwind, as Ann and I were traveling with a group of friends who were seeing Turkey for the first time. We would only have 3 days in Istanbul, and of course we wanted them to see the main tourist attractions. But I also wanted them to see the human side of the city, to understand what makes it so special.

The first big shock came when we landed at the new international airport. Open only a few years, it is now Europe’s second busiest airport. Still only partially complete, it is immense…and a long way out from the city. On the ride into the city center, I saw endless high rise apartments and office towers in every direction. When the city’s population goes from 6 million 20 years ago, to over 20 million today, it’s a tall order for the city’s infrastructure. They all appeared to be modern and well built, however, unlike 20 years ago, when the skyline was a mass of unfinished buildings, with rebar sticking up everywhere.

Pera

Our hotel was in the neighborhood of Beyoğlu, once called Pera, near the Galata Tower and Istiklal Street, one of the busiest shopping areas in the city. We spent the first few hours wandering around, looking in on the little shops and stopping for döner kebab at one of the thousands of spots offering this favorite food.

As we got closer to Galata Tower, things started to change. Once the center of Istanbul’s Sephardic Jewish community, now it was filled with swanky coffee and dessert spots, most with long lines of chic people waiting to get in. The humble little street my mother had grown up on in Istanbul had now been completely gentrified. A little synagogue with a heavily guarded entrance was the only remaining sign of the street’s past.

Kumkapi

For our first dinner out, we went to Kumkapi, in the oldest part of the city. Here, there are dozens of outdoor restaurants lining the streets, each one manned by an aggressive maitre’d eager to tell you why you should be eating at his restaurant. In addition, there are many bands of musicians working the streets, stopping at your table to play a few songs if you encourage them.

No matter where you’re sitting, you’re bound to hear at least two or three bands playing simultaneously, with many being joined by the diners in rousing choruses. A bit hokey perhaps, but lots of fun.

Bosphorus

I’ve always felt that Istanbul is defined in large part by its relationship with the sea, particularly the Bosphorus, the narrow strait that separates the European and Asian sides of the city. A must do on anyone’s itinerary then, is to take a boat tour of the Bosphorus.

We were very fortunate to spend a beautiful day on our friend’s boat, seeing Istanbul from the water at our own pace. We cruised up and down the Bosphorus, passing the famous skyline of Topkapi Palace, the Blue Mosque and Aya Sofya, and continuing on to a lunch anchorage at the upscale neighborhood of Bebek.

Tourist Istanbul

The next day would see us take in most of the sights in the old town on a private guided tour. This included Topkapi Palace, the Blue Mosque, Aya Sofya (Hagia Sophia), The Roman Cisterns, the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Bazaar. A lot of walking, a lot of facts and history, but an absolute must do for any first timer in the city.

Karaköy

We spent our last day walking around the neighborhood of Karaköy, on the waterfront on the opposite side of the Golden Horn from the old town. Once an area of industrial wharves and warehouses, it has now been completely redeveloped and features upscale shops, hotels and restaurants, along with a beautiful waterfront promenade. Though the look and feel was very modern, I felt the charm of Istanbul’s old streets and shops was still intact.

After three hectic days in Istanbul, our group was now ready to move on to other stops in Turkey. Next up, Cappadocia.