This destination guide is a very personal account of our travels. What we saw, where we ate and stayed, and what we liked and didn’t like.
Along with our lists, we’ve included a few tidbits of wisdom that we wish we’d had before we left. We hope you find this information useful on your next trip as well.
Malta is a tiny European island nation with an incredibly long and rich history. From some of the earliest known human habitation right up to the present time, the island has been settled, colonized, fought over and conquered by a long list of civilizations. It’s a treasure trove of archaeological and historical sites from every period of its history.
Beyond seeing ruins, Malta’s location and climate makes it a great getaway for those seeking fun in the sea and sun. The nightlife here also rivals many of Europe’s hippest destinations.
The entire archipelago is only about 25 miles across and 8 miles at its widest point. You can see most of the points of interest in 3 or 4 days. However, there is also plenty to keep you interested for a much longer deep dive.
Malta is relatively small and well serviced by public transportation. Buses are cheap and plentiful and can get you almost anywhere. They are not, however, fast.
Bolt ride hail (Europe’s answer to Uber) is a more convenient option when you don’t want to spend all day riding the bus. We never waited more than a couple of minutes for a car and the prices are very reasonable. Download the app and you’re ready to go. Bolt
When we wanted to spend a whole day exploring the island, we rented a car. We used Baron Cars, but there are others. It was easy, convenient and inexpensive to pick it up in town and return it 24 hours later.
In just the last couple of years, Malta has become a bit of a foodie destination. Since 2020 there have been 5 restaurants awarded a Michelin Star. These restaurants are still reasonably priced, especially compared to their equivalent in other countries.
Lunch is an especially good value, often featuring the same food as dinner but for much less. Just be sure to make reservations well ahead of time. We found many of the places in Malta used Open Table, so that is a good option.
Cruise ships visit Valletta almost every day, but some days are busier than others and you’ll contend with bigger crowds at the main attractions. If you’re flexible, you can consult a cruise ship schedule such as this one to plan your visit to Valletta on a quieter day. Valletta Cruise Ship Calendar
Being a small island, the sea is everywhere around you in Malta.
There are very few sand beaches. The largest is in Mellieha Bay and one of the most popular is in St. George’s Bay. Instead of sand, try one of the many rocky coves around the island. One of the most popular is St. Peter’s Pool, near Marsaxlokk.
The best way to get from Valletta to the surrounding towns is by water taxi. It’s inexpensive and fun. There is service to Sliema and Birgu.
There are many companies scattered throughout Malta that will rent you all manner of watercraft, from kayaks and SUPs to luxury yachts. We booked a 19-foot runabout through Be Green Malta , but there are many others.
Malta is reputed to have the best diving in the Mediterranean, especially if caves and wrecks are your thing.
While it’s hokey, we recommend starting the trip at the Malta Experience. it’s a 2-hour condensed version of Malta’s history and will give you a good foundation to decide what else you want to see.
Main points of interest:
St. John’s Co-Cathedral
City Gate
Upper and Lower Barrakka Gardens
Fort St. Elmo and the National War Museum
Republic Street – Main thoroughfare of Valletta
Across the Grand Harbour from Valletta is the 3 Cities. The best way to get there from Valletta is by water taxi in a traditional Maltese boat. You can also hire these boats for a harbor tour.
This is a nice area to explore for a few hours. There is an old fort at the end of every point and the charming town of Birgu. We saw many people touring in golfcarts from Rolling Geeks.
A cute fishing village on the south side of the island. There is a daily central market with hundreds of vendors selling staples and souvenirs. The waterfront is lined with seafood restaurants that boast the best and freshest seafood anywhere.
Gozo, the secondary island of the country, is a short ferry hop from Malta.
The main attraction here is the The Citadel, an impressive fortress at the top of Victoria that affords stunning views of the entire island. Nearby, the massive Rotunda St. John Baptist Church towers over everything around it.
On the north shore, the salt pans were very interesting to see, as was the Wied il-Għasri, a beautiful little cove that’s a popular swimming and snorkeling spot.
In the center of the island is the it-Tempji tal-Ġgantija, or Gigantic Temples. These impressive structures predate the pyramids in Egypt and were completed before the invention of the wheel.
There are many features and sites in Malta that can only be visited by boat. Whether you hire a small boat to take you to each one or book an all-day ferry excursion, you should plan to spend at least one day visiting these lovely spots.
Malta’s signature dishes are rabbit and pastizzi. The back story behind rabbit is rather interesting. For centuries, rabbits were raised on the island for hunting. But only the country’s nobility was allowed to hunt rabbit. When these castes were finally eliminated, the general population was finally able to enjoy their local bounty. It became very popular and remains so today.
Pastizzi is Malta’s national snack. It is a savoury pastry that encloses different fillings, the most common being peas and ricotta cheese. There are hundreds of Pastizzerias in Malta and we’re told that most Maltese can’t make it through the day without eating at least one.
Beyond that, there is a strong Italian influence in the cuisine, not surprising given their proximity to Italy. Despite Malta’s recent reputation as an up and coming foodie place (5 Michelin-starred restaurants since 2020), we generally found the food to be pretty boring.
The best food we had was Italian food by the sea, Lebanese food in Sliema and Turkish doner kebabs (gyros), which are nearly as numerous as pastizzerias.
Here are our favorites, from fancy to casual:
Madliena Lodge (Triq Il-Bir – 15 min west of Sliema) – This is a lovely place in an upscale neighborhood. The décor is classy and comfortable, the staff is very attentive and the food is “solid.”
ION Harbour by Simon Rogan – This 1-star Michelin restaurant in Valletta has gorgeous views of the Grand Harbour. While affordable – 40 Euros for lunch with a glass of wine – we felt the chef was “phoning it in” by using recipes from his other Michelin restaurants.
T’Annamari Restaurant (Marsaxlokk) – Easily the best meal we had in Malta! Of course it was Sicilian 😊.
Port 21 (Sliema) – This is the public side of the Royal Malta Yacht Club. It has an outdoor patio and rooftop dining. The food was good and the wines are reasonably priced. Tables are hard to get, so reserve early.
Churchill (Xlendi, Goza) – One of Sami’s super powers is finding really good restaurants in tourist trap areas. This was our second best meal. Of course it was Italian 😊. This town has a really cute little cove. We recommend eating here rather than near the Citadel.
LOA Malta (St. Paul’s Bay) – This Peruvian inspired hotspot has a chill vibe and is trying hard to be a place for beautiful people. The food was merely ok.
Is-Suq Tal Belt Valletta Food Market (Valetta) – This high-end food court in the center of old town Valletta has lots of restaurant choices. It can be a good place to grab a quick meal if you don’t want to take too much time away from sightseeing.
Titanic Kebab House (Rabat) – This little kebab shop just outside the walls of Mdina had huge, delicious and inexpensive Doner kebab sandwiches.
BeirutBay (Sliema) – Fabulous Lebanese food that tasted like it came from the chef’s humble home. There are only 6 tables, so reservations are a must. Go early in your stay so that you can go back again and again.
Pastizzeria by Mc Sims (Sliema) – An excellent place to grab a couple of pastizzis and a beer and watch the world go by.
RivaReno Gelato – This up and coming chain is some of the BEST Gelato we’ve had anywhere. Locations in Sliema and St. Julian’s (and expanding worldwide). The location in St. Julian’s has a second floor which is great for people watching.
The northern coast of Malta, stretching from Kalkara to St. Paul’s Bay, is the most developed tourist area and there are numerous hotels to choose from. We didn’t use hotels during our stay in Malta, so we can’t give specific hotel recommendations.
The core area of Valetta contains much of what you’ll want to see, so basing there is not a bad option. West of Valetta, starting in Sliema, and continuing through St. Julian’s and St. George’s, is a more upscale neighborhood and contains much of the area’s restaurants, pool clubs and night life.
August 25, 2023
