This travel guide is a very personal account of our travels. What we saw, where we ate and stayed, and what we liked and didn’t like.
Along with our lists, we’ve included a few tidbits of wisdom that we wish we’d had before we left. We hope you find this information useful on your next trip as well.
Boothbay Harbor and all of Midcoast Maine is a popular vacation destination. But this is very much a slow down, relax, and smell the roses type of vacation.
The coastline is dotted with small, picturesque towns that might have one or two unique things to see or do. For the most part, though, this is an area where you sleep in, relax on your porch while staring at the sea, take your boat out to putter around the thousands of islands, coves and waterways, and end up in a bar for a beer or a chowder.
Being in Maine is all about eating fresh lobster. There are many places to buy fresh lobster. Two that we tried are Atlantic Edge Lobster and Robinson’s Wharf.
Like crabs, lobsters occasionally molt their shell, so that caught lobsters can either be soft shell or hard shell. Soft shell lobsters can’t be shipped, so they are only available in the local area. Soft shell lobsters taste a bit brinier (which we liked) and the shells can be opened without shell crackers. They quickly became our favorites.
Both markets we tried offered lobster whole and live, whole and cooked, and picked (just the cooked meat). When we visited, whole live lobsters were $8.25/lb., plus another $.50/lb. to get them cooked. The meat yield from a lobster is about 20% of the live weight.
If you want a cooked lobster, you need to call ahead before 3 PM for a pickup later that day. Once we did the math, we realized that it’s only slightly more expensive to get the picked lobster. That’s the best deal!
The Midcoast Maine area has a coastline that is deeply indented with inlets, coves and little islands. Although distances between towns may seem small, the driving distance is usually much greater. A car is essential if you plan to explore the area beyond town.
The central town of Boothbay Harbor is quite compact and walkable. But with the harbor bisecting the town, it’s still a long walk from the east end of town into the center.
The season in Midcoast Maine runs from May 1 to mid-October. Almost all hotels, restaurants and attractions are closed outside of those dates.
Take a Scenic Cruise. We recommend the Audubon Puffin cruise with Cap’n Fish’s Cruises. In addition to seeing the harbor area (and possibly some whales), you’ll go out to an island where puffins have been reintroduced to the area. They’re very cute.
Visit the Maine Maritime Museum in Bath. Ship building in Maine is a big industry that is as old as the state. The museum tells many of it’s stories.
Stroll the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens. This beautifully landscaped botanical garden covers 250 acres. In addition to plants and a butterfly house, you can see the giant trolls, a wonderfully whimsical sculpture exhibit. Pro Tip: The site is back from the bay a bit, so it doesn’t get as foggy as downtown and is a good place to go when the fog rolls in.
Take a trip to Wiscasset to eat the best lobster roll you’ve ever had at Red’s Eats. You’ll wait in line over an hour and pay a king’s ransom (cash only), but it’s worth it. Their secret? Each sandwich has all the meat from a 2-lb. lobster, some butter, and no mayonnaise. Once you’d had one here, you can build your own back in Boothbay Harbor by getting rolls and butter from the grocery store and picked lobster from Atlantic Edge Lobster or Robinson’s Wharf.
While waiting for your turn at Reds, you may want to send someone to Treats across the street to get dessert. They have delicious cookies and brownies.
Mine Oyster. Live entertainment with a different band almost every night. We danced the night away here many times.
Neat. A great whisky bar in the back room of Marcel’s Submarine Shop.
Footbridge Brewery. A great selection of beers and decent bar food.
The Boathouse Bistro Tapas Bar & Restaurant. Nicely prepared tapas and Italian food with indoor and outdoor seating. We enjoyed our risotto.
McSeagulls Restaurant. A hang out for locals, featuring local-style food.
Harbor Treats. We ended every trip to town with a visit here for their delicious pastries.
Lobsterman’s Wharf, East Boothbay Harbor. Nice view, but there is better food elsewhere.
Cabbage Island Clambakes. This clam bake involves a boat ride to a private island. The food is good and plentiful. Be prepared to bring some home.
Robinson’s Wharf. Waterfront restaurant and seafood market. The dining deck over the water is a nice place to eat, drink, and watch the lobstermen unload their catch.
Sea Maine Vacation Rentals. A local vacation rental company that is connected to the community and knows the owners of the homes they rent. When renting from them, you can be assured that you’re getting homes of high quality that are well taken care of.
Fisherman’s Wharf Inn. A great location and many of the rooms have wonderful harbor views, but the property is looking worn and dated.
January 30, 2024
